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Poivre Noir enriching the culinary space of Kigali city

Friday August 27 2021
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Grilled beef fillet sliced into medium-rare medallions, presented in fat-swirled beef juice. PHOTO | JEFFERSON RUMANYIKA

By JEFFERSON RUMANYIKA

A wave of chef-owned and run restaurants is responsible for Kigali’s booming culinary scene. They have set up small but inspired restaurants and cafes serving fusion cuisine to cater to the evolving needs of Kigali’s ethnic diversity.

One such is Poivre Noir. It sits in Kigali’s gourmet capital, Kimihurura (8-minute drive from CBD).

Opened in 2015, the Bistronomie has since established a reputation as one of the best restaurants in the country, under chef-owner, John Goffin serving Belgian-French cuisine.

I order grilled shrimp with shrimp cream bisque and cured ham croquette as a first course, truffled char-grilled bone marrow with grilled beef fillet as second and butternut ravioli with white wine and tarragon cream sauce, mushroom and cheddar crumble for last.
Vibrant chorus

The grilled jumbo shrimp was delectably tender and buttery, with the gentle sweetness of the sea air brightened with the shrimps’ cream bisque and drops of truffle oil. The cured ham croquettes in a bed of fresh greens is ambrosial, with bits of prosciutto cured to perfection and breading outside.

The truffled char-grilled bone marrow is lusciously fatty, tastes even more delectable spread on the crunchy toast served with it. The grilled beef fillet sliced into medium-rare medallions is juicy slightly salty, beefy, with a mellow edge of flavour thatched with caramelised onions, presented in fat-swirled beef juice.

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The ravioli enfolded with rich, nutty sweetness of butternut is a luxurious meal in a bowl. Bathed in a creamy sauce, heady with white wine and liquoricey tarragon, combined with the earthy flavour of mushroom and tauntingly sharp buttery flavour of cheddar crumble, makes a vibrant chorus.